I already have a flower bed in my yard and want to plant flowers. What do I do?

The flower bed is just filled up with dirt, weeds, and little pcs of rock. First I need to clean it out I guess but do I use the dirt that's already in there or do put soil down? If you want to know, I live in Charlotte, NC (Zone 7). I want to plant perennial flowers. I'm new to gardening and want to know how prepare the flower bed, what type of soil I need (if necessary) and any tips on types of flowers to plant. Thanks alot!

I already have a flower bed in my yard and want to plant flowers. What do I do?
Start by amending the soil.


Soil by analogy: As we require food to support us so do plants. Our digestive system works to break down dinner to supply the basic units that will become us structurally, and provide energy, so soil acts to feed plants. Soil requires a steady supply of organic mater to support the worms and micro-organisms, which digest the organics into available plant nutrients. Then just as we take vitamins to complement our diet we can give plants trace minerals and other supplements but these are no substitute for the staple of organic matter to feed the plants. Balance and moderation are key.


You can do a visual soil survey by digging a small hole. First look at the hole and take some soil in hand. Check your soil's texture by picking up a handful and squeeze gently: If it feels sticky and stays in a tight mass, your soil is likely too high in clay. If it feels harsh or gritty and won't hold any shape or crumbles it is likely too high in sand. If it feels smooth or floury and won't hold any shape, it's likely too high in silt. If it molds into your hand yet crumbles apart when squeezed, it has the perfect texture. It is loam.


If it formed a sticky ball try to squeeze it upward to form a ribbon. Measure the length of the ribbon. Now wet the soil in your palm til muddy. Rub the soil against your palm with your other fingertips. Is it smooth, gritty or both?


1” gritty ribbon is sandy loam


1” smooth ribbon is silty loam


1” both is loam


1-2” gritty ribbon is sandy clay loam


1-2” smooth ribbon is silty clay loam


1-2” both is clay loam


GT 2” gritty ribbon is sandy clay


GT 2” smooth ribbon is silty clay


GT 2” both is clay











Amounts and Specifications: To make a significant change in your garden soil, an amendment must equal at least one-third of the volume of the soil you are amending.





For clay soils: the goal is to improve soil aggregation, increase porosity and permeability, and improve aeration and drainage. For example, to amend a garden to a depth of 1 foot, you need to add one-third of a foot (4 inches) of material.


*3 to 6 inches of organic material dug in 9 to 18 inches


*Perlite or pumice 5-25% of amendment


*Coarse sand 5-25% of amendment





For sandy soils: the goal is to increase the soil's ability to hold moisture and store nutrients.


*4 to 8 inches of organic material dug in 12 to 24 inches


*Vermiculite 5-25% of amendment








For both soils:


*Fertilizer - the type and amount of fertilizer to use CAN be determined by a soil test. Fertilizer comes in various forms (pellets, powder, liquid) and many nutrient ratios. If you add all the organics suggested above you can suppose a balanced organic like Whitney Farm rose and flower food 4-6-2 will be enough.





Design pointers for making garden pictures





Don't create fruit salad -- Without a focal point, there is nothing upon which your eye can rest. I suggest taking a black-and-white photo of the garden, because this lets you see form instead of color. It will be easier then to discover where you need to include an important feature. Take pictures as if from the house and towards favorite views. No favorites, then with an eye to creating a vista within your garden.





Use a strong evergreen element for year-round interest -- Outside the family room window, try copper or colorful clay pots to represent the "evergreen" element, and the seasonal plantings around them become "moments of glory." Evergreens can include ground covers like Acaena inermis, conifers that never reach 3 feet tall, or a trellis displaying a winter clematis as backdrop. Try an evergreen rhododendron, with hydrangea and seasonal bulbs like tulips, then allium and calla lilies.





Think in threes -- Each plant combination should use these three attributes: vertical, round and spiky. The contrast adds interest to even the smallest garden. Vertical can be the tall Daffodil arising from a bed of Wall Rock Cress with the daffodils orange center matched to the mounding primroses color. The tall waving lines of Feather Reed grass 'Overdam, with Heuchera 'Pewter Vail', and the round solidity of Bergenia.





Play to your strengths -- Choose plants with which you enjoy working. Intermingle plants with scented foliage to ambush you with their presence while simply weeding among them. Choose a play of color that reminds you of a favorite place. Cool blues to greens or flamboyant golds and oranges, vary the shape but stick with a color. Yucca 'Gold Sword' with Coleus 'Pineapple Queen' or Hakone grass with Hosta 'Sun Power'.





Be as organic as possible -- Lots of compost and thoughtful choice and placement are keys to organic gardening. "This is your chance to protect a small part of our planet."





Imagine looking out at the winter garden. Remember, the entire mood changes with the season. As the large vine maple (Acer circinatum) outside the window unfurls its leaves, the room takes on a decidedly spring green feel, while autumn turns the room warm with tones of orange and red.





Questions to ask yourself


Is a particular style of garden desired? Formal, informal, scented, night flowering for evening use, cottage style for growing herbs or vegetables as well as flowers?


What time of day is your garden most used, and by whom?


Will it be used year round or on summer weekends only?


How much time and energy will be available for maintenance?


Is there a particular view or landscape feature you like?


Is it visible from the house while seated?


Is it visible from a possible bench site in the garden?


Do you like what your windows frame?





To choose the right plant for the right place visit your local gardens. Lucky you to live in a state with such a choice of botanical gardens. The North Carolina Botanical Garden is one of the finest in the country and they have lists of plants. The Garden Club of North Carolina %26amp; the botanical garden cosponsor North Carolina Wildflower of the Year program as well as sponsoring many garden talks. It is well over an hours drive from you but would be worth the trip.


http://www.ncbg.unc.edu/


But you have three much closer to visit; Daniel Stowe Botanical Garden http://www.dsbg.org/index.php


UNC-Charlotte Botanical Garden,


and Wing Haven Garden and Bird Sanctuary


248 Ridgewood Avenue (off Selwyn Avenue)


Charlotte, NC 28209-1632


704-331-0664
Reply:you know seeds? ok well you put them in the ground.... yay!
Reply:First you have to do is take the weeds out then level the dirt to your liking. You don't need to take out the little rocks, you can even put them on top of the dirt to be part of the garden itself. You don't even need to put a new top soil you can use the existing dirt.





Second, you go about and pick the flowers you like. At zone 7 you have a lot of choices for perennials. Check its instructions if it fits your garden location.





Lastly, as a starter gardener you can check this site and decide for yourself what methods you'll use. (www.squarefootgardening.com). good luck.
Reply:Take care of existing weeds first. Then you can either use the dirt that's there, or go get bags of garden soil (organic if you can) to top dress the soil with. Go to the local nursery for your plants, they can help pick out what you want. When planting, put the tallest growers in the back, shortest in the front. Mulch the beds to keep weeds at a minimum, and water daily until the plants are established and you can cut back. You can jazz it up by mixing in annuals for seasonal colors and variety. If you have a bed close to the house, intersperse cooking herbs such as basil, oregano, rosemary, and whatever else you want for fresh herbs all summer...remove flowers as they appear and at the end of the summer you can dry the rest for fresh dried organic herbs during the winter.
Reply:Clean out the garden of weeds and rocks. Then, dig small holes where you want the flowers and mix regular dirt with some topsoil. Then, put some of the mixture down, put the seed in, and cover it with the rest of the topsoil. If you don't want a seed, just use a pre-done flower. Your local flower shop manager should be able to help you choose which flowers.





Make sure your flower garden is watered regularly stays weed-free!
Reply:You didn't say how large of a bed you had. I would remove as many weeds as possible. Spread several bags of pine bark mulch over the area. Till and mix well with the soil. Wait a week or so and till again to remove any weeds you may have missed. Plant your flowers in the usual way. If you are using potted plants, apply root stimulator at the time of planting (available at your garden center). Carefully and lightly cultivate between plants with a hoe or rake periodically to keep weeds down.



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